Pergola Plans for Bracket Kits: Post Layouts and Lumber Lists for 4-Post, 6-Post, 3-Bay and Wall-Mount Builds
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A pergola plan for a steel bracket kit is two things: a post layout and a lumber list. The kit decides how many posts and beams you need and where they meet. You decide the bay length (L) and bay width (W) by the beam lengths you buy, up to the kit's 14 ft maximum span.
Below are five plan views with matching lumber lists: a 4-post single bay, a 6-post double bay, a triple bay built from a 6-post kit plus an extension kit, a single wall-mount and a double wall-mount. Each one shows every post and beam, the brackets that join them and worked examples for common sizes such as 10x10, 12x12 and 10x20.
Unlike most free pergola plans, these involve no notches, no angle cuts and no buried posts. The lumber slides into the brackets and is screwed in place.
How to Read These Plans and Pick a Size
Every drawing is a top (plan) view with L and W as letters rather than feet, because the size is yours to choose. Bays always run in a single row: a double or triple bay gets longer, not deeper, so the depth of any layout is one bay width.
Frame beams are the same nominal size as the posts, 4x4 or 6x6. Rafters, slats or shade go on top later. Jurrque's recommended wood span is 12 ft between two adjacent brackets, which is one bay, with a maximum of 14 ft; posts are recommended at 8 ft, with a maximum of 10 ft. A standard frame is a 12 ft span on 8 ft posts, and the largest is a 14 ft span on 10 ft posts.
Match your footprint to a plan. Sizes are nominal; the outside of the finished frame comes out a little larger because the posts and brackets add to it.
| Footprint you want | Plan | Bays (L x W) | Beams to buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8x8 | Plan 1, 4-post | 1 bay, 8 x 8 ft | 4 at 8 ft |
| 10x10 | Plan 1, 4-post | 1 bay, 10 x 10 ft | 4 at 10 ft |
| 10x12 | Plan 1, 4-post | 1 bay, 12 x 10 ft | 2 at 12 ft, 2 at 10 ft |
| 12x12 | Plan 1, 4-post | 1 bay, 12 x 12 ft | 4 at 12 ft |
| 12x16 | Plan 2, 6-post | 2 bays, 8 x 12 ft each | 4 at 8 ft, 3 at 12 ft |
| 10x20 | Plan 2, 6-post | 2 bays, 10 x 10 ft each | 7 at 10 ft |
| 12x24 | Plan 2, 6-post | 2 bays, 12 x 12 ft each | 7 at 12 ft |
| 10x30 | Plan 3, 6-post + extension | 3 bays, 10 x 10 ft each | 10 at 10 ft |
A 12x16 shows why bays matter. A 16 ft run is longer than the 14 ft maximum span, so the 6-post plan splits it into two 8 ft bays. A 13 or 14 ft side, such as 12x14 or 14x14, still fits Plan 1 with a single kit. A square with both sides over 14 ft, such as 16x16 or 20x20, would need intermediate posts on both axes, which these single-row layouts do not provide.
For which wood to buy and how nominal sizes compare with actual sizes, see the pergola lumber guide for 4x4 and 6x6 kits. For the whole build from site prep to the last screw, see how to build a pergola with steel bracket kits.
The plan viewer below redraws any of the five plans at your own bay size and lists its lumber.
The five plans at a glance:
| Plan | Posts | Beams | Lumber |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4-post, single bay | 4 | 4 | 4x4 or 6x6 |
| 6-post, double bay | 6 | 7 | 4x4 or 6x6 |
| Triple bay (6-post kit + extension kit) | 8 | 10 | 4x4 or 6x6 |
| Wall-mount, single bay | 2 | 3 | 4x4 only |
| Double wall-mount | 3 | 5 | 4x4 only |
Plan 1: 4-Post Single Bay (10x10 and 12x12 Examples)
The classic freestanding pergola: one bay, a post at each corner and four beams on top, each corner bracket holding one post and two beams. The 4-post pergola bracket kit comes in 4x4 and 6x6 versions and includes 4 three-way corner brackets, 4 post-base brackets, 128 screws and 20 expansion bolts.
| Piece | Qty | Length | 10x10 example | 12x12 example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Posts | 4 | Your height | 4 at 8 ft | 4 at 8 ft |
| Beams along L (B1, B2) | 2 | L | 2 at 10 ft | 2 at 12 ft |
| Beams across W (B3, B4) | 2 | W | 2 at 10 ft | 2 at 12 ft |
| Total boards | 8 | 8, plus a spare | 8, plus a spare |
How to build a 10x10 pergola with this plan: assemble the four beams into the corner brackets on the ground as a "U" and then close it into a rectangle, add the posts on one side, then complete the second side and anchor the bases. The single pergola build instructions show each stage.
Plan 2: 6-Post Double Bay (10x20 and 12x24 Examples)
The double bay is the answer to "can you put two pergolas together?" Rather than butting two frames side by side, the two bays share a center pair of posts and a center cross beam, so you need 6 posts instead of 8. The 6-post pergola bracket kit includes 4 three-way corner brackets, 2 four-way center brackets, 6 post-base brackets, 256 screws and 30 expansion bolts.
| Piece | Qty | Length | 10x20 example | 12x24 example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Posts | 6 | Your height | 6 at 8 ft | 6 at 8 ft |
| Long-side beams (B1 to B4) | 4 | L (2 per bay) | 4 at 10 ft | 4 at 12 ft |
| Cross beams (B5 to B7) | 3 | W | 3 at 10 ft | 3 at 12 ft |
| Total boards | 13 | 13, plus a spare | 13, plus a spare |
Each long side is two beams, so you never need lumber longer than one bay. The build order changes too: you build the first half with its center posts in the four-way brackets, build the second side, then lift it and slide it into the first. The double pergola build instructions walk through that sequence. Plan on at least two people for the lift.
Plan 3: Triple Bay With a 6-Post Kit and an Extension Kit
For a long dining area or a grill-plus-lounge layout, the pergola extension kit adds one bay to the center of an existing 6-post frame, so the frame stands on 8 posts. It contains 2 four-way connectors, 2 post bases, 64 screws and 12 expansion bolts, in both the 4x4 and 6x6 versions. It is not a complete kit: it only works with a compatible 6-post kit in the same post size, 4x4 with 4x4 or 6x6 with 6x6, and it is for flat-roof frames only, so it cannot extend a sloped-roof or A-type frame.
| Piece | Qty (all three bays) | Added by the extension | 10x30 example | 12x30 example (L 10, W 12) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Posts | 8 | 2 | 8 at 8 ft | 8 at 8 ft |
| Long-side beams (B1 to B6) | 6 | 2 | 6 at 10 ft | 6 at 10 ft |
| Cross beams (B7 to B10) | 4 | 1 | 4 at 10 ft | 4 at 12 ft |
| Total boards | 18 | 5 | 18, plus a spare | 18, plus a spare |
If you know you want three bays, plan them from the start: lay out all 8 post positions, buy the 18 boards together so they match, and keep every bay the same L so the beams are interchangeable.
Plan 4: Wall-Mount Single Bay (4x4 Only)
An attached pergola plan swaps the two back posts for two wall-mount brackets fixed to the house. The kit includes 2 15° three-way corner brackets, 2 15° wall-mount brackets, 2 post bases, 128 screws and 20 expansion bolts. The frame slopes 15° from the high end at the wall down to the front, and the wall-mount kits are made for 4x4 lumber only.
| Piece | Qty | Length | Example (L 10 ft) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posts (front) | 2 | Your front height | 2 at 8 ft |
| Wall-to-front beams (B1, B2) | 2 | A little longer than W | See the slope table below |
| Front beam (B3) | 1 | L | 1 at 10 ft |
| Total boards | 5 | 5, plus a spare |
How the 15° Slope Changes Your Beam Length and Wall Height
W in the drawing is the level distance out from the wall. Because the side beams slope, each one is longer than W, and the wall end sits higher than the front. The figures below are rounded geometry for a 15° line: rise = beam length × 0.259, and level depth = beam length × 0.966. They are not a bracket specification; where each beam sits in its brackets shifts them, so dry-fit before you drill the wall.
| Level depth from wall (W) | Sloped beam length, approx. | Rise from front to wall end, approx. |
|---|---|---|
| 8 ft | 8 ft 3 in | 2 ft 2 in |
| 10 ft | 10 ft 4 in | 2 ft 8 in |
| 11 ft 7 in | 12 ft (recommended span) | 3 ft 1 in |
| 13 ft 6 in | 14 ft (maximum span) | 3 ft 7½ in |
A 10 ft depth therefore needs boards longer than 10 ft: buy 12 ft stock and trim. Also, the wall brackets sit well above the tops of the front posts, so check that your wall has solid framing or masonry at that height and clears any eave or gutter. The wall-mount pergola build instructions cover walking the frame up the wall, and the guide to attaching a pergola to a house covers what to fasten into.
Plan 5: Double Wall-Mount (Two Bays Along the House)
For a longer patio along the back of the house, the double wall-mount pergola kit doubles the run with only one extra post. It includes 2 15° three-way corner brackets, 1 15° four-way center bracket, 3 15° wall-mount brackets, 3 post bases, 168 screws and 30 expansion bolts.
| Piece | Qty | Length | Example (2 bays, L 10 ft) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posts (front) | 3 | Your front height | 3 at 8 ft |
| Wall-to-front beams (B1 to B3) | 3 | A little longer than W | Use the slope table in Plan 4 |
| Front beams (B4, B5) | 2 | L | 2 at 10 ft |
| Total boards | 8 | 8, plus a spare |
The build follows the double freestanding pattern: build and mount the first side, then build the second side, slide it into the first and anchor the last wall bracket and the bases. The double wall-mount build instructions list the order. Jurrque's freestanding sloped-roof kits (4x4 only) follow the post and beam counts of Plans 1 and 2 with a 15° slope. The 4-post sloped kit includes 4 sloped corner brackets, 4 post bases, 128 screws and 20 expansion bolts; the double sloped kit includes 4 sloped corner brackets, 2 center brackets, 6 post bases, 256 screws and 30 expansion bolts. Their sloped beams are longer than the level depth, so use the slope table in Plan 4 when you buy lumber. They are not drawn here.
Adding Rafters, Slats or Shade on Top
Anything you add above the frame beams is a separate layer, fastened with ordinary hardware, and it changes your lumber list:
- Rafters across the frame: count = (run in inches ÷ spacing) rounded up, plus 1. For example, a 10 ft run at 24 in spacing takes 6 rafters; at 12 in spacing, 11. Each rafter is W plus any overhang you want.
- Top slats over rafters: repeat the same count at your slat spacing, running the other way.
- Shade fabric or panels: fewer boards; decide on the cover before you settle post size and spans.
Rafter and slat sizes are not set by the kit. For how far a given board can span at a given spacing, the American Wood Council's span calculator for joists and rafters is the standard US reference, and your local building department has the final word.
What These Plans Do Not Tell You
- How to anchor the posts. The kits include expansion bolts, which suit concrete. Pavers, decks and soil need a different method; see how to anchor a pergola on concrete, pavers, decks and soil.
- Whether your design needs more than the standard frame. The kit spans are 12 ft recommended and 14 ft maximum between adjacent brackets. If you add a roof, panels or another load, or your area has strict code requirements, check the design with your building department or a qualified professional.
- Whether you need a permit. Codes are adopted locally, often with amendments, as the International Code Council explains. Size, height, setbacks, attachment to the house and HOA rules all matter.
- Where the utilities are. If any part of your plan involves digging footings, contact 811 a few business days before you dig.
Printable Pergola Plan Checklist
Lumber
- Posts and beams in one nominal size, 4x4 or 6x6, matching the kit (wall-mount kits: 4x4 only).
- Dressed, dry, straight boards; take a bracket to the store to test the fit. Actual sizes are 3.5 x 3.5 in for 4x4 and 5.5 x 5.5 in for 6x6, and rough-sawn lumber will not fit.
- Board count from your plan, plus one spare.
- Stock lengths: lumber is sold in standard lengths in 1 ft or 2 ft multiples under the American Softwood Lumber Standard (PS 20), so pick L and W that use whole boards with little waste. Measure and trim matching beams to the same length.
Hardware in the Kit
- Corner and center brackets (plus wall brackets for wall-mount kits), post bases, wood screws and expansion bolts, in the counts listed under your plan.
- The screws are 1-1/2 in pan-head wood screws with a Robertson/Phillips combo drive, 3 per side of each bracket, in the holes closest to the wood.
Tools
- From the instructions: ladders, a drill, a measuring tape and cardboard to protect the surface and brackets.
- Generally also useful: a saw, a level, a speed square, clamps, string and stakes, and a hammer drill with a masonry bit for concrete.
- All four guides are on the pergola build instructions page.
Anchors by Surface
- Concrete slab: the included expansion bolts, installed per general anchor practice.
- Pavers, deck or soil: a footing, pier or framing-appropriate fasteners bought separately.
- House wall (wall-mount plans): fasteners suited to your wall's framing or masonry, chosen before you lift the frame.
Pergola Plans FAQs
Do You Need Building Plans for a Pergola?
You need at least a one-page plan: post positions, beam lengths and a lumber list. If a permit is required, your building department may also ask for drawings.
What Size Pergola Do I Need?
Size it around what goes underneath. Many single seating or dining zones fit a 10x10 or 12x12 bay, while a dining table plus a lounge area usually calls for a double bay such as 10x20.
What Are Standard Pergola Dimensions?
There is no single standard. Common footprints include 8x8, 10x10, 10x12, 12x12, 12x16 and 10x20, and Jurrque's standard frame is a 12 ft span on 8 ft posts, up to a maximum of a 14 ft span on 10 ft posts.
How Far Apart Should Pergola Posts Be?
With these kits, posts sit one bay apart, so the spacing equals your beam length. The recommended span between adjacent brackets is 12 ft and the maximum is 14 ft; only a run longer than 14 ft needs another bay from the 6-post or extension kit.
Can I Use These Plans With 6x6 Posts?
Yes for Plans 1 to 3, which come in 4x4 and 6x6 versions; posts and frame beams must all be the same size as the kit. The wall-mount plans are 4x4 only.
Are These Drawings to Scale?
No. They are schematic layouts that show the number and position of parts. Your real dimensions come from the lumber you buy and a dry fit.